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Note: When installing Barbacks on Low bar bikes without ABS will require a longer brake hose.
All the info on this website has been gathered by me from those who have installed RD Barbacks on their bikes...according to them, in order to remove the low bars, do the following:
"(For low bar bikes) You also have to get the front wheel off the ground
or the slider will try to tilt on you, according to a good BMW tech I talked to.
He said with the wheel up, it would be a very simple operation.
Another
tip, tell your customers to check their brake and clutch levels before installing.
If fluids are low when they set the handlebar controls on a towel on the plastic,
air may get into the system. It did on my clutch. Hope this may help your customers."
Tony S.
Howe, Texas
1.
Remove the anti-rotation screw for each bar (under the triple clamp, toward the
center). If I remember correctly, they're hex.
2. Loosen the pinch bolts on
the bar and the triple clamp. Remove/replace one side at a time.
3. Raise
the slider above the triple clamp. There's a wire circlip at the top of the slider
- remove and retain.
4. Push the slider down through the triple clamp and
the bar. Remove the bar (use a towel to protect the tank/fairing, and just lay
the bar on it).
5. Push slider up through the triple clamp (may need to be
moved back into alignment, but not much). Make sure there's enough slider over
the triple clamp to accept Rapid's bar backs (or the original bars).Snug the triple
clamp pinch bolt, but don't tighten fully.
6. Repeat for other side.
You can now move the current bars into position to check for slack. If you can finish the install w/o any add/l mods:
7.
Install bar back. Don't tighten the pinch bolts.
8. Loosen triple clamp pinch
bolt, and push slider up until the circlip notch is above the bar back.
9.
Reinstall the circlip, and push the slider down until it stops. The circlips prevent
the sliders from sliding out of the clamps (that's why you removed them in step
3). Bottom of bar back should be against top of triple clamp.
(Note:
The circlips are noted here as keeping the sliders from moving down, out of the
clamps before setting the sliders in place and tightening the tripoleclamp. The
circlips will need to be removed again when installing the barbacks.- RD)
10. Tighten all pinch bolts to spec.
11. Repeat for other side.
12. Install
bars on bar backs.
Don't try to do both sides at once; the triple clamp starts moving around, and both sliders develop minds of their own. You'll need 3 hands to realign everything.
Don't ask me how I know this.
Hope
this helps. The whole operation took me 20 minutes - including time to find the
darn rotation screws - and I'm a klutz...
__________________
Joe C.
Chicago, Ill.
'02 R1100SBX
Updater
05/04/06
I've
done an inquiry at the
Pelicanparts
R1100S Tech Forum and
there is alot of good feedback there now.
Here's
the direct link to the discussion:
Barback
Longer Hose Inquisition ...
Mentioned
is a BMW Parts search that is very useful called
RealOEM.com.
Also,
Here is a quote from one of our members about the throttle cable. it appears that
replacement is not required:
"There
is no need to add a new throttle cable if you tuck the cable behind the ignition
key cylinder. Secure it losely with a zip tie. If it is allowed to remain in it's
normal position it will cause the bike to race.
This is one area that was a
little unclear when I did my research.
I was releived to know the cable didn't
need replacing.
Gary"
And
more on the brake hose for non-ABS lowbar bikes:
"
(Note:
It's been brought to my attention that one or both of these part #s refer to lowbar
bikes going from below to above the bars only...these hoses are evidently only
1.5" longer the stock. This does not refer to using RD barbacks. Going from low
bars to above plus adding RD barbacks will need a hose 3-4" longer, 4" being
on the long side.
I suggest measuring for a longer hose and ordering thru another
source such as Spiegler USA...this is a good time to got to steel brake lines
anyway... - RD)
"Here
is information from Suburban Machinery for their R11S Handlebar Riser Kit: On
non ABS models a longer brake hose is required.
For Brembo calipers (99 thru
Jan 2001) use BMW part # 34-32-2-331-915
For BMW EVO calipers (Feb 2001 thru
today) use BMW part # 34-32-7-651-553
Mike"
Info:
04/19/04
Chris F. of RC Cycles in Hayward, CA. has info on
the installation on the Boxer Cup.
"To go from "low bars"
1100S to "high bars"' 1100S, must purchase BMW accelerator cable p/n
3273-7659-680 $22.00 retail. Will have to remove side panels and fuel tank. May/will
also need to re-route the fast idle (choke) cable under the alum. front fairing
support bar for proper turning clearance of cable. There is also a little plastic
support (swivel) you can get from BMW that connects the choke cable to the clutch
cable where they cross each other down by the alum. front fairing support bar.
This can also probably done with a cable tie."
Thanks
Chris!
Info:
06/16/06 - (this is an original 1999 lowbar S)
Hi Randy,
I took some pics during the installation. Feel free to use them on your site if
you want to.
Thanks again,
Chris Harris
Affordable
Beemer Services LLC
info:
09/22/06 - Raising the fork tubes and the bike's geometry
Many
have asked the question, so I asked it on the Pelican
Parts R1100S Tech Forum.
Here's the Link - Raising
Sliders vs Geometry...
Illustration courtesy of "signit98"...