Instructions for Installing Barbacks - R1100S with Comfort Bars

Please read this completely before you begin. Oscar the CNC guy suggests you use Loctite on the barback screws for insurance. (You'll get a set of these instructions when you order.)
Props to Paul Longo who helped me with a few details here. Thanks Paul!

1. If necessary cut the cable ties that fasten the handlebar control wiring harnesses near the stock bars and at the steering head. (Note. I admit I had my fairing panels off when I first installed the prototypes because I was doing a brake bleed at the time. Therefore it was very easy to access the cable ties!)

2. If you haven't already raised your bars on the fork tubes like I did, remove the wire circlip that holds the bars on. Put the circlip in your parts drawer.
You won't be needing this.

3. Loosen the socket cap screws completely and remove the comfort bars on one side from the fork tubes. Place it on some padding (like a blanket) on top of the fuel tank to avoid scratches. Clean the surfaces of the fork tubes to remove any dirt, grease and oil..

4. Turn your forks all the way to the steering lock on the side you are installing for clearance and slack. Slip the barback male post into the comfort bars female clamp on, snug the clamp bolt slightly, just enough so that they don't pull off and you can still adjust them.

5. Mount the entire handlebar/barback onto the fork tube. You'll find this is much easier than trying to mount the barbacks first and then stretching your wires and cables to get the comfort bars onto the barback's post. Repeat steps 1-5 on the other side.

6. Line up the barbacks onto the fork tubes. This is a very snug fit, so be patient. Make sure your barback screws are completely loose. The back may want to "rock" onto the post. This is fine, but try to level it with a tap on the top surface. A good hit with the heel of your hand or a mallet will help slip the barbacks in place on the fork tubes. Once you have the barbacks all the way down on the tubes, adjust them so that they are pointing straight ahead (parallel) and snug down the clamp screws just enough to keep them in position. Partially tighten clamp bolts on the bars to allow adjustment. Click on the image to the left (6) which illustrates the adjustability available. The red arrow indicates the limitation of rotation where the banjo bolt will make contact with the rightside barback.

Note: You'll see that the positioning tab on the comfort bars will touch where it meets the barback top surface, and the bottom of the barback also might make some contact with the tapered fork tube cap.
The positioning tab acts like a spacer here. For those of you who are adept, some re-fitting could be done for a more custom fit. A fair amount of machining/filing on the comfort bar would be required to do this.
There are design improvements that could be done, but that's another subject and another cost…
Personally, I'm O.K. with the way it works.

7. Alignment: Most people like to align the bar backs parallel and symmetrical, tighten, and then adjust the comfort bars to suit. However, the barbacks have some concentric adjustment on the fork tube. Use your own discretion and adjust the set-up to fit your ergos best. Adjust the setbacks and comfort bars to clear the fuel tank at full steering lock in both directions.
*If necessary, VERY slightly loosen the hydraulic banjo bolts at the clutch and/or brake master cylinder and rotate the line just enough to clear the left setback, then re-tighten the banjo bolt. (*This from Paul, I haven't tried or needed to do this.).

*If necessary, VERY slightly loosen the hydraulic banjo bolts at the clutch and/or brake master cylinder and rotate the line just enough to clear the left setback, then re-tighten the banjo bolt. (*This from Paul, I haven't tried or needed to do this.).

8. Check wiring harnesses and hydraulic lines for possible points of abrasion and for adequate slack at full steering lock. Re-install new cable ties where necessary.

9. Tightening: You want the barbacks tight enough so they don’t rotate of course. Per Paul's instructions, it's suggested that the torque on the barback screws 12-15 ft-lbs.
(Check the BMW shop manual for the handlebars and tripleclamps). Careful with that wrench Eugene! I had one guy twist the heads of the SS SHC screws…that’s too tight!

Since you have 2 socket screws per clamp, you'll want to alter tightening of each screw until the clamp is good and snug.
Torque at your own judgment. I tightened mine down so they don't move without a really good whack on the bars. I'll suggest here that you tighten them down more than that.
When in doubt, use a torque wrench (you do have a torque wrench don't you?!).
I'd say that <18ft-lbs would be about max. There has been only one person that managed to torque it down so hard that they twisted the head off the SS screw…so, the billet will take it.

Finally... Take a ride and see if it was worth the wait…and let me know what you think.

Here are some helpful instructions from a fellow S rider that's moved his low bars to above the tripleclamp...