WILL MY BIKE NEED A LONGER BRAKE HOSE?
Soon
come...data so far is that comfort bar bikes don't need no stinking longer brake
hoses, just a little slack in the wire harness needs to be pulled. See Instructions.
Sportbar (low bars under top tripletree) bikes without ABS will need a
longer hose. Up to 4", but best to take your own measurements here.
Updater
05/04/06
I've done an inquiry at the Pelicanparts
R1100S Tech Forum and there is alot of good feedback there now.
Here's
the direct link to the discussion: Barback
Longer Hose Inquisition ...
Mentioned is a BMW Parts search that is
very useful called RealOEM.com.
Also,
Here is a quote from one of our members about the throttle cable. it appears that
it's not required:
"There is no need to add a new throttle cable
if you tuck the cable behind the ignition key cylinder. Secure it losely with
a zip tie. If it is allowed to remain in it's normal position it will cause the
bike to race.
This is one area that was a little unclear when I did my research.
I
was releived to know the cable didn't need replacing.
Gary"
And
more on the brake hose for non-ABS lowbar bikes:
"Here is information from Suburban Machinery for their R11S Handlebar Riser
Kit: On non ABS models a longer brake hose is required.
For Brembo calipers
(99 thru Jan 2001) use BMW part # 34-32-2-331-915
For BMW EVO calipers (Feb
2001 thru today) use BMW part # 34-32-7-651-553
Mike"
There is some discussion on this subject...Do a search at Pelican Parts R1100S Forum...There are opinions and everybody's got one, so it goes like this...
The
OEM comfort bars have a small positioning indicator tab (or tang) on the bottom
side that corresponds with a notch in the top side of the upper tripleclamp that
prevents the handlebar from rotating...it also prevents the rider from positioning
the handlebars to suit his/her feel. In turn, the OEM Sport (low) bars have a
screw that serves the same purpose.
Personally, the first thing I did was raise
my comfort bars far enough upward to clear the tang from the slot so that I could
rotate them to suit me better. I always adjust the bars and levers on a motorcycle
before I ride it, just like I do in a car, steering wheel, seat, mirrors, whatever...motorcycles
should have adjustability IMO.) Think about it...why would a manufacturer make
handlebars that were NOT adjustable?...weird.
There
has been only 1 case that after ordering, a person opted to not use RD Barbacks
because they do not incorporate the tang. The BMW mechanic's (that was to install
them) opinion was that if it didn't have the tang, it wouldn't work and not be
safe...and furthermore, in the case of a crash or front-end hit, the tang would
prevent the bars from rotating.
Really...
So be it. One person's
opinion. I gladly refunded the buyer's money, no questions asked.
RD
Barbacks work on the traditional clamping principle that has been used with racing
clamp-on bars for a long long time. That said the choice is up to you. This is
why when you order a set, I require that you read and agree with the Release
of Liability. We are not a business selling aftermarket products. We are enthusiasts
making custom parts to order for other enthusiasts. You are solely responsible
for how you modify your bike!
On the same hand, this is the reason why dealers
shy away from installing products that they don't sell themselves. Keep in mind
that they view it as a liability issue, and often times they look down their noses
at products they aren't familiar with. The dealer/mechanic sees the widget, and
the natural reaction is to question it, and the opinions start flying..."if
it's not BMW, than it won't work" is the norm...unless of course the widget
is very popular and sells well...
My
take on it is for one to avoid the hassle and install them one's self, but only
if one felt comfortable in doing so. Otherwise, one should find another alternative